Lichtausbeute Originalscheinwerfer

Das günstigste dürfte es wohl sein,
wenn du dir nen H4 Einsatz kaufst und den in den Orginal Scheinwerfer setzt.
Noch so eine von den besonders starkern Leuchten rein und zack.

Sich jetzt nen neuen Scheinwerfer zu kaufen lohnt wohl nicht.
Da dürfte in nächster Zeit einiges neues auf LED Basis kommen.

Gruß Bremsnix

Hi Otti!

The basic problem with the Hawk/Bros headlight is that the wiring is too thin and current has to pass through a lot of switches before it reaches the headlamp. The current leaves the battery, goes through the main fuse, through the main switch, through the fuse box underneath the headlight, through the right handlebar switch assembly, through the left handlebar switch assembly before it reaches the H4 adapter in the headlight. All these fuses and switches create impedance (which grows as the circuits corrode over time) and the result is that not all the battery voltage (~13V when the engine is running) reaches the headlamp.
What you need to do is bring as much voltage as possible to the headlamp directly from the battery. To do this you need:

2 relays 12V 40A
[Blockierte Grafik: http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/Full/6436i0.jpg]

1 fuse box and a few 10A fuses
[Blockierte Grafik: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/fuse/7460k61.gif]

Multi strand cable 1,5mm and 1mm thick

Male and female connectors
[Blockierte Grafik: http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/111/gfx/large/7548kp1l.gif]
[Blockierte Grafik: http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/111/gfx/large/7548kp2l.gif]

Ring-Type connectors to attach cable on the battery
[Blockierte Grafik: http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/111/gfx/large/7113kp2l.gif]

1 H4 Connector
Insulation tape and/or heat shrink cable housing

The general idea is to make new cabling to pass the current from the battery through the relays and directly to the H4 connector and use the old cables to operate the relays. This means that when you switch the lights on by operating the left hand switch the current will not go into the headlight, but it will close the relay and current will go to the headlamp directly from the battery. This is how you need to wire the relays:

[Blockierte Grafik: http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL859/3568584/7342256/131110193.jpg]

30, 85, 86, 87 & 87A are the relay contacts. You need to wire the + pole of the battery to contact 87 through a 10A fuse and the return of the current to the – pole of the battery to contact 86. From the same negative pole you wire thick 1,5mm cable directly to the new H4 connector in the headlight. Then you need to wire thick 1,5mm cable from connector number 30 of the relay directly to the new H4 connector. From relay connector nr 85 you need to get thin 1mm cable to the old H4 connector (the high beam relay cable should connect to the blue wire in the old H4 and the low beam relay to the white cable in the old H4 connector. The green wires of the old H4 connector are not used any longer). That’s it! You should now have enough current in the headlight to make it work a lot better. You may even want to try a more powerful light bulb or make the necessary wiring mods to accommodate a dual headlight setup.

Vassilis

PS. Many thanks to Will Turano of the US Hawk List for this fantastic mod and the wiring diagram.

hi otti...

ich hab mir einen doppelscheini für 100 euro von ebay rangebaut, war aber auch nur beding heller als das original.. wichtig ist wirklich vassilis. hinweis, über relais zu schalten, sonst brennt di bei gelegenheit der schlater der armaturen weg.. und ganz nebenbei wirds dann auch richtig licht