Motortuning

Ach Werner....

Und der Motor ist fast schußsicher, auch mit 70Ps erreicht der Laufleistungen >100.000km. Demnächst kann ich´s beweisen

was wird da alles gemacht?
Ich hab 300.- gelöhnt, kann man aber nicht wirklich von Tuning reden eher Optimierung.

Ah der Hubert,

die Schweinehacken(AZ) ist ja der Motorausbau, ich hab beim Jürgen (CHM) den Kopf machen lassen, war aber nix aufregendes nur polieren und Kanäle entkoksen.(Wir haben den Murl gemeinsam ausgebaut)
Mir hat der Hubert auch knappe 600.- für die Auspuffverlegung und Batteriehalterung und noch ein paar Kleinigkeiten abgenommen, für, finde ich, tadellose Arbeit. Mir hat er angeboten für zwei Flasch Bier stellt er mir den Vergaser ein, aber das bleibt unter uns (macht ja jetzt der Jürgen) aber den Jürgen kannste auch anrufen 0660 / 65 50 737
chm1@aon.at Stichwort ottihawk

Das wird sich erst rausstellen! Er hat mir gesagt ich soll mir nicht zuviel erwarten, der Prüfstand wird die Wahrheit ans Licht bringen. Und das noch diese Woche "i hope so"
Aber ich muß ja angeblich schon mörder PS haben:
TBR Anlage +12HP
Nology Zünkabel ?HP (spricht mörder gut an damit)
Kopf +3-4PS
ich weiß nur daß sie vor dem zerlegen 48P PS auf die Rolle gedrückt hat.

Schau Dir einfach mal an, was gekonnte Kopfbearbeitung bringt:

http://www.thiel-motoren.de

und die Tel. Nr. von Roland hast Du doch auch noch, oder ?

Meine drückt ca. 70PS und die 65 mehr ccm dürften da nicht allzuviel beitragen.

Zitat von "Michael"

Schau Dir einfach mal an, was gekonnte Kopfbearbeitung bringt:

Wie gesagt bei mir wars eher ne Optimierung, naja bei ner Laufleistung von über 105tkm noch was ordentlich tunen, ich weiß nicht. Bei mir hat der Kopf sowieso runtergemußt da die Ventile ziemlich zugekokst waren.

jetzt hab ich nur noch ein Prob mit dem Auspuff: unten nix Leistung aber oben volle Power und mit nix Leistung mein ich nix Leistung.
aber zurzeit hab ich ne Engländerin

http://www.picturetrail.com/jensen44
Here is new pictures of my modification to the bike, and the welding up of the heads that has finished. It has taken a long time because the man who was going to do the valveseat job was VERY SLOW WORKING.

It is very surprising how much different there is from a "rollenprufstand" vergasser einstellung, mit dysen und so weiter, and to run on the road.I have now as you can se installed an temporaly AFR Wideband instrument and when I run on the road I had to reduce my main jet from 155 to 135 to get the right AFR.

Now I need some "logger" so that I can log the data when driving. Do any of you know a datalogger that can do that. It is an "INNOVATE" http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/kits.php instrument.

My plan is to connect and log the TPS and RPM to. There logger DL-32 is to expensive for me, so looking for an alternative and an Laptop is to big to drive around with.

[Blockierte Grafik: http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1205/4805739/9960325/391407277.jpg]

An Cosworth -Engineer:
"Guys, forget about it, you can´t drive a dyno"

A different in mainjet when running Dyno compared to road is normal... but a different of 20 points isn´t.
There might be a problem with your airbox, check intake temperature (and pressure inside your box if possible). Pressure shouldnt differ more than 50mbar inside/outside, temperature (of course) as low as possible.

Caution, i don´t know whether this Innovate has an internal compensation-unit for the temperature of the Lambda-Sensor. If not, it will show "leaner" mixture on high, "richer" on low temperature of the sensor. And of course temperature on road is lower than on dyno. It is absolutly important to check additionally either color of the spark-plugs or even better of the piston-surface.

I use Pot filters and the carbs are the ATs newest (flatslide CV carbs) and they normaly use 115 main jets, so I am + 20 on that and when I look at the plugs, they look right. There can be a problem when they on the Dyno, use the lambda "sniffer" on the end of the exhaust comparing to what I do. I have it mounted before the slip on can. The Lambda is calibrated to the actual conditions and it heat up with an internal heat "system", before it is ready to messure. I have a problem around 3-4000 rpm where it go very lean. It dosent change with or without DB killer. The new cams (longer duration) gave that problem. Before it was perfekt all the way. (cams also with longer duration and lift then original) Thats what happens when playing.

Anyway I will try to find an old laptop to download too, because it is dificult to remember/memorise it all when driving. I am an old man (;o) Have been looking around and had hopeed, that there could be a small, cheap datalogger. (wichfull thinking)

The 115 jetting with the pods is more than astoneshing. i use the same carbs (RD04), 714ccm also, +3mm valves and needed 138/142 jets. Stock needle +additional shim.
In a closed, silent airbox and street-legal BSM-Exhaust !!
Whats the HP of the engine?

Normally 115 main jet is standard on a standard AT engine with the flatslide CV. Am I wrong that it only is the (RD07) that has the Flatslide carbs. ? Dont the (RD04) use round slides.?

HP on the engin now. ? I dont know because I have made to many changes since last time in the Dyno, but that was 760 cc and 70HP on the rearwheel. Now it is 780cc, but I think honestly, it feels less now. Unfortunately every step is not going forward. Sometimes on step is backward.

You´re right of course... flatside carbs came with RD07-Modell...

I cheked my notices again for you:
Never jetted a Flat-Carb lower than 130 (stock engine, stock Airbox)
Right now mine is running with 138/142. Cams RD07 stock About 74HP, 73nm.

Its running a bit rich, but so it gets better throttle-response and lower engine-temperature.
Still think theres an intake problem on your engine.
Do you know the degrees of your cams?
What are the timings you adjusted? Stock? 10° before upper dead center?

The first engine config. was +1mm inlet valves, +1mm pistons ( +18 ccm),+1mm lift on cam.

http://www.gw-racing-parts.de/…iew=tuning&HID=15&type=NT 650 Hawk&von=0&bis=0&lan=de

and i got 70 rwHP from standard 50 rearwheel hp. That was very fine and it was with exactly 138/142 mains. ( One that has a "Mende"780 AT has told me that his 72HP engine, make 64HP on the wheel) So i am very satisfied.

Now i am on +3mm inlet and +3 exhaust valves, but unfortunately on to low compression. GW has delivered another cam for that engine and it has much shorter duration then the first one. I think they send me that config because then they was sure that I would not get any problems with that. And they was right, work great, but it miss out on the top rpm. I now have a cam from http://www.kentcams.com/

There HON4 cam profile are used on AT and Hawks, (that is very close to one of the GWs, but I got them to make another one that I am trying now.)

I dont know the times on a standard AT cam (never got the time to messure one, before sending it to regrind ) In the Hawk manual it says 10 - 40deg but how much different is the AT.